South West Coast Path

Day 31. Portloe to Mevagissey, 8 September 2025.

Breakfast in the Lugger was splendid and served in a restaurant overlooking the small harbour. As I climbed out of Portloe the village was looking its best on a bright sunny morning.

I started off walking with a Scots couple who had also stayed in the Lugger but their pace was a bit slow so I went on ahead and soon met up with Alex again. This was another grand day with fine scenery on a remote coastline that was new ground for me.

This was the beach at Portholland. I was tempted by a swim but decided to wait until later in the day. Here we caught up with a Canadian lady who was doing the whole path in one hit and had stayed in the same B&B in Falmouth. We swapped tales about getting across to St Mawes - she had waited for the 11 am ferry but had been forced to miss out some of the path as a result.

Halfway through the walk we came to Dodman Point, the highest headland on the south Cornwall coast with its huge granite cross. It was built in 1896 by the local vicar to act as a daymark after a number of shipwrecks in the area. The inscription on the base reads ' In the firm hope of the second coming of our Lord Jesus Christ and for the encouragement of those who strive to serve'. I'm not sure about all that but I took advantage of having a companion to act as photographer...

before reverting to selfie mode for this photo approaching Gorran Haven...

where I stopped for a swim and an ice cream before continuing to Mevagissey, very colourful in the late afternoon sun.

This was the view from my room overlooking the harbour.

I had intended to do one more day from Mevagissey to Par but the following morning was wet and the forecast was for rain all day. I'm too old for character building walks in the rain, and the path will still be there another day. I caught the bus to St Austell and a train back to Par before driving home.

Distance today, 20 km.

Day 30. Falmouth to Portloe, 7 September 2025.

I checked the ferry website before breakfast but it was still not clear whether it was running. As I left the B&B I fell in step with a lady who had also stayed there and was walking the coast path, so we chatted away while walking to the ferry pier. The wind was not quite as strong as yesterday but there was no sign of a ferry and we were told that it might (or might not!) be sailing in two hours time at 11 am.

We both had accomodation booked at Portloe at the other end of 23 km of walking, the second half of which was graded strenuous. And Alex was using a baggage transfer service so that her luggage was being taken to Portloe. What to do? In the town square we approached a waiting taxi driver to if he would take us to St Mawes. We settled on £60. The driver was a very friendly bloke and he filled us in on all the local gossip as he took us over the King Harry Ferry across the River Fal (a chain ferry 8 km inland from Falmouth, so not subject to high winds) and down to St Mawes.

While we were waiting for the ferry the heavens opened to give a storm of biblical proportions. We were glad not to be out in that, but by the time we got to St Mawes the rain had reduced to a light drizzle. Here we needed to take another much shorter ferry crossing to the other side of the Percuil River and a place called Place. Fortunately this ferry - just a small dinghy - was running and we were soon dropped off at Place (which was just a large house and a church) around 10.45.

The weather improved to give a bright sunny afternoon and made for a fine walk along the Roseland peninsular, past Portscatho and on to Nare Head. Along the way we caught up with a couple who had stayed overnight in St Mawes, caught an early ferry to Place and had been out in the biblical storm. Maybe our enforced taxi ride did have its advantages.

Alex and I found that we were walking at about the same pace and after doing most of the path on my own it was nice to have company for a change. This photo was taken approaching Portloe and journey's end.

Portloe is a quintessential Cornish fishing village, with whitewashed stone cottages in a narrow valley behind a small harbour. The white building left of centre of the lower photo is the Lugger hotel where I was staying, a bit upmarket from my usual coast path accomodation but well worth it. I made myself a pot of tea and relaxed in a huge bath.

Alex was staying in a pub at the other end of the village so I joined her for dinner before walking back to the hotel and watching a lunar eclipse over the harbour.

Distance today, 24 km.

Day 29. Helford Passage to Falmouth, 6 September 2025.

For this trip I left the car by the station at Par, then took two trains to Falmouth, a bus to Trebah and a short walk downhill to get to Helford Passage at about 1.45. This was an easy walk, starting along the shore of the Helford River estuary and then along low cliffs to Falmouth.

It was a sunny afternoon but the wind was quite strong from the South and as I came into urban Falmouth there were big waves at Swanpool Beach, and then at Gyllyngvase the beach was nowhere to be seen with rough seas crashing into the sea wall.

I checked into my B&B just back from the beach, had a cup of tea and then set off (sans rucsac) to walk the 4 km circuit round Pendennis Point and back past the docks.

In the evening I checked the website for the ferry to St Mawes. It had not been running today due to the strong wind and they were not sure if it would be sailing tomorrow. Now that might be a problem...

Distance today 16 km.

Day 28. Coverack to Helford Passage, 12 June 2025.

The B&B didn't serve breakfast but gave you free run of the kitchen and provided everything to make your own.This had the advantage that I could get up and away early. The morning was mostly dry but it had rained heavily overnight, and the path often took a narrow trail between abundant wet vegetation so that it was impossible to stay dry. The ideal clothing would have been to copy the Naked Rambler but I was not bold enough for that, and my shorts and socks were soon soaked.

At Porthallow I paused for a selfie by the marker for the half way point on the coast path and soon came to the first of the the many river crossings on the South Coast - Gillan Creek. The SWCP Guide claimed that there were stepping stones exposed for around 3 hours around low water but although the tide was almost out they were nowhere to be seen.

A few walkers were milling around looking at the river and wondering what to do. Upstream from this photo the river split into two channels which didn't look too deep so I removed boots, socks and trousers and waded across through water that was up to just above my knees.

While I was getting dressed on the far side these two ladies took a better route across, a longer crossing but only ankle deep.

I continued to Helford, arriving just after midday, and a much larger river; this one required a ferry. But while crossing Gillan Creek needed low tide, the Helford ferry could not operate at the lowest tides and there was a notice saying that the next ferry would not be for another hour.

My South African friend was waiting and was not a happy bunny; he had a rendezvous in the pub on the far side which he was going to miss. He tried phoning the boatman asking if he could come across in a dinghy but was just laughed at. Eventually the boat arrived about 1.30 and took us across to Helford Passage.

I had vaguely thought of trying a double stage by continuing to Falmouth, but the ferry delay put paid to that so I walked up the hill to Trebah, took a bus to Falmouth and train to Truro before driving home.

Distance today, 17 km.

Day 27. The Lizard to Coverack, 11 June 2025.

This was a shortish day of mostly easy walking above low cliffs. I soon passed the new lifeboat station at Kilcobben Cove, complete with its own funicular railway. Although it was open for visitors they had to use the steps rather than the railway so I was not tempted.

Just before Cadgwith there is this collapsed sea cave, called the Devil's Frying Pan.

Nearing the end of the walk I made a small diversion to this beach, Lankidden Cove. The path down was a bit of a challenge but I enjoyed a quick swim.

After this I caught up with a South African bloke who had come all the way from Minehead in a single push but was suffering with various minor injuries and was intending to stop at Falmouth. We chatted for a while but at Black Head I made another small diversion to check out this old coastguard look out which has displays about the local geology, flora and wildlife. The headland is made of an unusual greenish black igneous rock, and I had done a couple of climbs here in 2021.

So far today the path had not been too taxing but the last 2 km to Coverack through Chynhalls Cliff were very tough. I had caught my South African friend and we struggled as the path wandered round rocks and through dense undergrowth with plenty of ups and downs. I was pleased to finish the day at Coverack whereas he was continuing to Port Houstock.

My B&B in the Old Post Office was right by the harbour and a great place to stay.

This was the view from my bedroom window.

Distance today, 17 km.

Day 26. Porthleven to The Lizard, 10 June 2025.

My B&B hosts were a retired couple who had just one spare room and only allowed one night stays, so were set up for coast path walkers. We had a good chat over breakfast before I headed south. On the way out of the village I passed Mott House which I later discovered could be rented as a holiday home. Maybe we should arrange a stay there.

This was a great walk with lots of interest and some fine secenery. The first landmark is the beach at Loe bar, hard going on loose gravel, and with this memorial on the far side..

Soon after comes Gunwalloe Church Cove, with a tiny church almost hidden in the bushes just behind the beach.

After passing Poldhu, this obelisk marks the site from which Marconi sent the first transatlantic telegraph (to St Johns in Newfoundland) in 1901. There is a visitor centre in a small wooden hut but it was only open in the afternoon and I was too early.

The path from here to Kynance Cove is a wonderful stroll above high cliffs. The promontory in the second photo is The Horse (yet another climbing venue).

As expected, Kynance Cove was pretty busy

before I turned the corner to head east at Lizard Point. I followed the coast past the lighthouse to Housel Bay, then headed inland to Lizard Town where I had booked a room in the pub.

In the village there was a tiny shellfish bar so I placed my order for crab and chips, picked up a pint from the pub next door, and sat outside eating dinner in the evening sunshine.

Distance today, 25 km.

Day 25. Marazion to Porthleven, 9 June 2025

I left the car in Truro, then took a train to Penzance and a bus back to Marazion where I had left off four months ago. This was an easy day above low cliffs and the path was very busy, something of a surprise as I was used to winter days when I saw very few other people.

The path took me through the old mine workings at Trewavas

and the granite outcrop where I had climbed on a few previous visits.

Near the end of the walk I was watching a peregrine above Parc Trammel cove and got chatting to a lady who was involved in the project to reintroduce choughs to Cornwall. 25 years ago they were extinct here, now they are quite common and I had seen plenty (and heard more) while in Cornwall.

The day ended at Porthleven and my B&B in a small fisherman's cottage.

On a wander round the village before dinner I met these two blokes gazing out over the harbour.

Distance today, 18 km.

Day 24. Mousehole to Marazion, 18 February 2025.

I had planned to tick off the short section through Penzance before driving home, so I left the car at Marazion and took the bus to Penzance. I had to wait about 15 minutes for the second bus to Mousehole so I found a seat and started doing the crossword on my phone, but forgot to keep track of the time and looked up to see my bus just leaving. Blooms, as my brother would say.

I couldn't be bothered to wait for another half hour, so decided that my rules could be relaxed to allow this short section to be done in reverse, and set off walking west.

On the way I passed these pebble seats on the promenade at Penzance